Angie Hatch

ang@cc.usu.edu
Senior in Antrhopology at Utah State University

"This has been a unique experience. I like the idea of staying in one place for a long time and becoming part of the lives of the people. Not only are we building friendships cross-culturally, but within the class - we have a great group.... Go to Bonnie Glass-Coffin's field school."

Angie and Chad surfing with Chicho, a local surfer.

Waves of the Chimú

Introduction

I walked out into the freezing cold water, balancing myself against the floating long-board. A few meters out sharp rocks began to dig into my feet. I thought it would be nice and sandy all the way out, but my feet were already bleeding. I got on the board and began swimming toward the waves. My strokes were weak and my instructor for the day, Michael, was also pushing me. The first wave came; it crashed down over my head almost knocking me off my board. I learned to brace myself and arch my back on the smaller waves and to duck my head and close my eyes on the bigger ones. When we got further out Michael turned the board around so I was facing the shore. When he saw a wave breaking behind us he told me to swim hard. I began swimming and when the wave came, he pushed me into it. It was an amazing feeling! It just took me! It almost felt like flying. As soon as I tried to stand up, I toppled face-first into the water. By the end of the day I could stand up and keep my balance, though I was still very awkward. Surfing was harder than it looked!

For the people of Huanchaco, Perú, the sea is an important part of everyday life. The town has been an important port since pre-Spanish times. Traditionally the residents are fishermen, and many who don’t subside directly off the sea are marketing Huanchaco as a charming beach town in the tourism industry. The kids have grown up by the sea and many have been taught to fish by their fathers. Local fishermen still use traditional boats made of totora reeds and it is on these that many children first learned to “ride the waves.” Not surprisingly, surfing has become a popular sport among the last several generations. Huanchaco has produced several competitive surfers and hosts a competition once every year on Peruvian Independence Day.

The town of Huanchaco is currently experiencing a shift in identity, all too often perceived as a loss of identity. Several factors such as growth, tourism and the decline of the fishing industry are contributing to the changing identity of the town. In my short time in Huanchaco I decided to study the potential role the surfing industry could play in the future identity of the town. I am suggesting a model of development and change that emphasizes cultural continuity over time.

Background

The town of Huanchaco is located on the coast of Perú, about eight hours North of Lima by bus. The area is a very dry desert in the rain shadow of the Andes Mountains. Nearby is Chan Chan, the largest adobe city in the world. The weather is mild in the winter and can get up to 80 degrees Fahrenheit; winter is the high season for surfing. The El Nino ocean current interrupts weather patterns every several years by warming the ocean and producing rain.

The costal area where the town of Huanchaco sits today has a long history of occupation. The surrounding archaeological sites date back to pre-ceramic times. Immediately South of Huanchaco are the ruins of Chan Chan, the capital of the Chimú civilization. The Chimú were conquered by the Inca and were living under their rule when the Spanish arrived. Huanchaco has always been an important sea port, and the town boasts the second-oldest Catholic church in all of Perú. Today the population of Huanchaco is between 2 and 3 thousand. It is a quiet beach town about twenty minutes from the city of Trujillo, the third largest city in Perú. The road along the beach front is well-developed with hotels, restaurants, pubs and gift-shops. A small artisan market is set up just South of the pier.

You can always see totora reed boats, called caballitos de totora, leaning upright on the wall just North of the pier. They are about three meters long and are made of dried reed plants tied into bundles. The fishermen sit or kneel on these narrow boats and row with long bamboo sticks. It is quite a balancing act! Most of them will give rides to tourists for a couple of dollars. On the far North end of the beach are the rectangular pits where totora reeds are grown. They originally grew in the marshy highlands and in river-valleys, but today they are cultivated in family-owned pits. The reeds are cut, dried, tied into bundles and made into boats. A boat is usually only in use for less than a month before another is built. These boats have been used since pre-Spanish times and are represented on much of the pottery. Huanchaco alone preserves this tradition. Frequently represented in the pottery are depictions of fishermen on caballitos “riding the waves.” People along the Northern Coast of Perú have begun to boast the oldest surfing tradition in the world, going back at least 2,500 years. Several Huanchaco natives who have become competitive surfers even claim to be directly descended from Chimú kings. In 1964 the first Hawaiian surfboard was brought to the Huanchaco area and by 1972 surfing competitions were being held on the Northern Coast of Perú.

Today surfers frequent the area South of the pier in Huanchaco. The size of the waves is not what makes this area necessarily attractive. The unique thing about these waves is their length. I’ve been told that you can ride a wave for several kilometers on a good day! There are only two or three surf shops in town where you can rent wet suits and boards. To buy equipment it is necessary to travel to Trujillo. There is a surfing school located in Huanchaco and many local surfers are willing to give lessons for a couple “soles” per day.

I became interested in studying the potential role of the surfing industry in Huanchaco’s future after learning that the fishing industry is on the decline. Few tourists make special trips to Huanchaco to see the caballitos de totora, but they are a large part of the town’s identity. Every tourism add for the town, every website, every piece of art contains a representation of this abiding tradition. The local artisans sell miniature caballitos and many restaurants and hotels use them as decorations. Without the fishing tradition, Huanchaco is just another small costal town. The beach, however, has been over-fished and the El Nino current has had a detrimental effect on the industry. Fishing is not as profitable as it once was. Fishermen are encouraging their children to obtain educations and become professionals. Of the younger generation, none plan on staying in Huanchaco to fish. Their parents would like them make better lives for themselves instead of continuing the family tradition. Fishing seems to be a dying tradition which may only be preserved into the future as an exploited form of cultural tourism.

The identity of Huanchaco is going to change in the next century and as I realized this, I began to wonder what the role of the surfing industry might be in this transformation. As far as surfing goes, the beaches and waves of this region seem to be a resource which could be tapped into more and more as time goes on. Some of my questions were: What could be done to further tap into this resource? What is already being done? And how do local people feel about their town’s relationship with the surfing industry?

Methods

I arrived in Huanchaco on June 16th 2002 and began to meet and make friends with many of the local people. I found them very friendly and also very curious. When they found out that I was a student from the United States, that I would be staying for five weeks and that I wanted to learn about their culture, many people were willing to befriend me and do what they could to help. As soon as I defined my topic of research as having something to do with the surfing industry, I began to ask related questions in these casual conversations. This was some of the most important work I did. I was able to identify culturally significant issues and narrow my research question based on what was perceived to be important by the people.

My next step was to conduct some semi-formal interviews with selected informants. I tried to talk with people who had contact with surfers on a constant basis. I conducted interviews with several hotel owners in town who seemed to be knowledgeable about the local sentiment toward surfers. They were very willing to help and they further informed me of the culturally significant issues surrounding the industry.

The next logical step seemed to be becoming a surfer. My biggest fear being the cold water, I went to Trujillo and purchased a wetsuit. With that done, I asked around to find the few local surf shops and the best teachers. After hiring a teacher and renting a long board for a total of about three dollars a day, I began learning to surf. I went out several times, and although I still wouldn’t call myself a “surfer,” I did get better. I met some of the local surfers - three of which served as my teachers at some point. I asked questions pertinent to my research in casual conversations and they were always willing to answer. This was an important facet of my research - these people provided the connection between the locals and visiting surfers. I had one formal lesson on the history of surfing in Northern Perú by one of the prominent local surfers. I had thought it would be a formal interview, but as it turned out I asked very few questions and came away with a lot of valuable information . I borrowed and copied material from several of my friends. They lent me access to magazine articles, academic studies, city tourist development plans and even personal works such as articles and illustrations.

The last important step in my research was to talk with visiting surfers. Because of the transitory nature of their presence in Huanchaco, my research with them could not contain much depth. I found that the most efficient way to glean information was simply to approach them on the beach. I would introduce my self as a student and ask them open-ended questions such as “Why did you come to Huanchaco?” and “What changes would make Huanchaco more attractive for surfers?.” The most valuable insights I gained from this research had to do with the contrast between Peruvian and foreign responses. I spoke with a group from Lima and other places in Perú, a group from France and one person from Ireland. A more representative sample would have been desirable, but I was limited by time constraints.

Discussion

One of the first issues that was brought to my attention was that many of the local people have a negative attitude toward surfers. They are perceived as being “druggies” who bring bad things to the town. There is a strong division in Huanchaco between “insiders” and “outsiders.” From the very beginning of my experience there, I heard continual reference to the “mala gente” or bad people. These people are blamed for both real and mythical harm that the people of Huanchaco have suffered. These “mala gente” are always from another town or place; they are always “outsiders.” People from the outside are treated with a lot of suspicion and the sentiment is even worse for visiting surfers who have of reputation of drug use.

I was told that, for some surfers, Huanchaco has particular attraction because it is easy to get drugs there. The drug laws are almost never enforced making it not only easy to get drugs, but easy to use them openly. I was not able to ascertain a reason for this lack of enforcement. It is not hard to imagine that at least some surfers do use drugs in Huanchaco and that they give a bad reputation to everyone else. I was told by one informant that many of the local surfers and surf shop owners assist visiting surfers by finding them cheap places to stay and eat and also by hooking them up with places to buy drugs. I wanted to find out if the bad sentiment was actually justified and how wide spread the drug use was. I was not able to find out by direct observation, but began to ask around. Some people gave me the impression that drug use occurs but is not a particular problem among visiting or local surfers. From others I got a drastically different story. One informant told me that out of about forty local surfers in Huanchaco only about six are not using drugs. I heard a whole spectrum of different reports, but I think I may conclude that there is at least some basis for the surfer stereotype involving drug use.

Stricter enforcement of drug laws seems to be the obvious solution, but I did not delve into the political topics surrounding this issue in my research. Instead I began to ask what future alternative attractions might be developed. Most tourist towns are a magnet for casinos, dance clubs and bars. These attractions may not create an environment that the locals consider desirable, but they undoubtedly produce revenue. Huanchaco, however, is a very quiet place - especially at night. It didn’t take much probing to find out why. A city ordinance has been passed that, according to several of my informants, prohibits the sale of alcohol after 11:00 at night. Another city ordinance prohibits any business to stay open after 11:00. I have not researched the actual content and enforcement of these laws, but many people have asserted their existence. Only two pubs in town have permission to operate. They are both run by foreigners and one is currently closed for repairs. There apparently used to be a discotheque in Huanchaco, but it was closed down after these laws were passed - along with several other pubs. The attraction of a night life in Huanchaco has definitely been stunted in the last few years. Whether developments in this arena would be a good thing for the town is a matter of opinion, but it is one alternative development plan that has been shut down for the time being.

At least some local people would like Huanchaco to remain a quiet fisherman’s town. They have no desire to attract objectionable outsiders who might bring drugs and “loose” behavior with them. This point of view has clearly been represented to some degree in the town’s governance. In some places Huanchaco is being marketed to the tourist industry as the tranquil, relaxed beach town that it is. Many other local people, however, would love to see Huanchaco move into the current age with modern attractions and amenities. The town is also highly marketed as a surfing attraction. The town’s website, “huanchaco.net,” was designed by the owner of a surf shop and hotel - the only web master in town. He is currently working on an entire site dedicated to surfing on the Northern coast of Perú. It is easier to find information on the web about surfing Huanchaco than it is to find information about caballitos de totora.

I began to ask the surfers what they thought of future developments in Huanchaco. Of the surfers I talked to, all agreed that warmer water and more tropical weather would be a bonus, but one we can not control. Many also complained about the polluted beach and water. The water along the beach front is subjected to occasional sewage contamination making the water less than desirable. The beach front, although not dirty, is littered with trash. I don’t think anyone, tourist or local, would object to a project to clean up the beach. It would definitely be a goal worth putting some time, money and effort into. Some “no-littering” signs along the beach front and the help of some volunteer youth groups from the community may work wonders. Perhaps the several organizations in town could each “adopt” a section of the beach and be responsible for keeping it clean.

Beyond this I found differences in opinion among visiting surfers concerning the future of Huanchaco. The division seemed to occur along an insider/outsider boundary line. Are tourists, and surfers in particular, looking for a modernized, tourist-oriented, developed beach or are they more interested in a “native,” exotic atmosphere oriented towards cultural tourism? Informants from other areas of Perú recommended changes to modernize the town with more of a night-life, more surf shops and local access to banks. Foreign visitors seemed more inclined to discourage modernization or change. I heard from more than one person the statement, “Perú is Perú.” They come here to surf expecting a cultural experience - that “native,” exotic experience. They would like to see Huanchaco preserve more of its traditional appeal. “It doesn’t have to be like Hawaii,” nor do they want it to be.

The model I would like to suggest for future development of the surfing industry in Huanchaco is one that emphasizes cultural continuity over time. The fishing tradition is dying and may only remain profitable in the sense that it is an attraction for cultural tourism. Many people are fighting to keep the old artisan fishing tradition alive through libraries, schools, the arts and even plans for a “cultural center” in Huanchaco. I believe it is a tradition and an identity worth preserving, but as long as the fishermen can make better lives for themselves elsewhere, what right do we have to insist they continue this legacy?

Conclusion

Huanchaco, Perú has a rich heritage extending back to pre-Hispanic times. Fishing is an important part of this heritage, as are the caballitos de totora. There is an obvious continuity here. These fishermen were “corriendo las olas” long before the surfboard was ever invented. Men are depicted on pottery in surfing positions. All you have to do is watch these fishermen at one of the local festivals - watch them surf on a reed boat and do tricks such as stand on their heads - to realize that this is more than a subsistence strategy. It is an art.

The sport of Hawaiian surfing was quick to catch on with these people of the sea. Their ancestors have been “catching waves” for thousands of years. If the people of Huanchaco were to identify their town as a surfing town, they would not necessarily need to leave behind their cultural heritage. In this continuity I see a way to preserve the old as something very valuable and genuine while embracing the changes that may help to keep the town afloat economically.

More research could definitely be in order following this line of thought. More quantifiable data representing views of local people, people involved in the surfing industry and visiting surfers would prove very useful in generating a plan for tourism development. More politically oriented research could also be useful in identifying, understanding and possibly removing obstacles to desirable development.

Current efforts to expand awareness of the cultural heritage should continue and tourism marketing efforts could begin to emphasize the cultural continuity of the surfing tradition in this part of the world. Come see what is possibly the oldest surfing tradition in the world in Huanchaco, Perú! Catch a wave on a caballito de totora! The “olas” are great and sunsets are renowned!