Michael Girard

bigwaterone@excite.com
New York
Senior in Landscape Architecture
Utah State University

"The program has been one of the most beneficial experiences of my life, changing my contemporary view of the world. This is field work that is not offered in my program and is simply priceless."

City of the Golden Steeds

Michael Girard • Juan Julio Bracamonte Mantllia • Utah State University Department of Anthropology Field School • Summer 2002 Dr. Bonnie Glass – Coffin

Blazing sky over stretched breakers. Grass steeds hurdle foamy onslaught. Hero’s walk barefoot and history replicate daily.

Huanchaco is a peaceful fishing village located on the northern coast of Peru, eight miles north from Trujillo, dubbed the “Northern Capital of Peru”. Local legend states that this area was founded 800 years ago by the arrival of Takaynamo, founder of the Chimu civilization of Chan – Chan. Spanish presence was erected here in the form of a cathedral in 1540 A.D. and is the second oldest cathedral in Peru. In 1543 A.D. the Spanish founded Huanchaco as a city and over three hundred years later the district of Huanchaco was established by a bill passed by Marshal Castilla’s provisional government.

Huanchaco was founded as a fishing village but recently tourism has replaced the initial industry as the main commerce of the township, and Huanchaco has grown to hold over 27 hotels and hostels, more than 65 restaurants and eateries with more on the drawing board. Over 100 artisan shops, bodegas, and pharmacies with one open air market supply locals and tourists while education is provided by two primary schools with one secondary school. Health care is made available by one sanitary clinic. In 1980 the population was only at 1200 residence. Estimates at the moment have ballooned to 50,000 citizens with many of these numbers coming from settling migrants on the eastern edges.

Huanchaco’s current situation is that it may be in danger of losing a faltering identity, gaining urban sprawl with its inevitable side effects, and possibly a new way of life thrust upon it that is not its true self. This minute pueblo is faced with the daunting task of maintaining and rejuvenating a way of life that is both unique and romantic while physically growing in a manner that preserves and nurtures a common identity and culture while allowing for modern advances and growth in tourism.

This student’s research is not anthropological, but rooted in the field of Landscape Architecture as it lends itself to town planning. Here, the goal is to evaluate the town of Huanchaco, as it exists physically, and supply the municipality and population with a compilation of suggestions to aid the town’s growth into the next twenty years. One should note the difference between this paper and a legitimate master plan for a community. Master plans can consume at least one if not two or more years of a planners life. This paper is firstly suggestions for the community. Secondly it is a stepping stone for a larger project slated for spring 2003, my senior thesis. This paper is more the result of information finding than planning and will be the backbone of a larger submittal. Due to local culture and inexperience creative methods had to be devised to gain the desired information to help create bottom up solutions to existing problems.

The methods of this paper were tailored to time restraints of the field school, five weeks, and this authors lack of an ethnographic background and native tongue. Along with a participatory survey and simple observation this paper is being co-authored by Juan Julio Bracamonte Mantllia, a prominent native, and socially conscious businessman. Mr. Bracamonte was an AFS exchange student in Virginia during the 1980’s. He received his degree in Business Administration from the National University in Trujillo and now is the proprietor of the café at the Hostel Bracamonte, an establishment founded by his father. Due to Mr. Bracamonte’s excellent English skills, education, and social standing in the community as well as his interest in this project, he was agreed to help compose this paper.

Other instruments used in this study were a survey, Appendix A, and recorded interactions with the citizens of Huanchaco. The survey was designed to give a brief demographic of the community and to allow more intense interaction by the population in creating a new landscape. Attached to the survey is a straightforward map of Huanchaco, as it exists today, for their use. Each participant was asked to draw/redesign as they see the town of Huanchaco in 20 years. They were also asked to write down any other comments they may have had. These responses are listed in Appendix B as they were written.

The survey was distributed to 9 individuals for completion. Of the group sampled three of the individuals are currently working for the municipality, two are current business owners, two established artisans, a hotel employee and a local surfer. It should be noted that in group two are female. Juan Julio was not given a survey due to the extensive interviewing that took place.

The last tactic used was the recording of everyday events and taking note of the current landscape, both its benefits and drawbacks. This was one of the most interesting aspects for this author due to a lack of travel in the southern hemisphere. While there are many similarities to North American culture, there are also numerous differences that contribute to the landscape.

The two undisputed themes that have emerged from the surveys and interviews with Juan Julio are that Huanchaco should not grow physically larger, but to grow inward and the “Greening” of the community There is a desire to build and capitalize on what is present, not what is to come. Many believe that Huanchaco has a large enough footprint already, now it is time to fill the shoe. Many of the changes recommended are not altering the physical state, they are altering the state of physical quality and quality of life. Secondly, the planting of vegetation is imperative. “The first thing that comes to my mind is that I would like a, this city to, to have more green” states Mr. Bracamonte in a recorded interview. Six out of ten surveys specifically stated the same desire.

From the compiled information gathered through survey testimonials, interviews with Mr. Bracamonte, and personal experience two lists have emerged, one Huanchaco’s strengths and another of its weaknesses. Explained below are the two collections: Advantages, and Disadvantages.

ADVANTAGES

From this student’s background in town planning and landscape design, Huanchaco has done a tremendous job creating an engaging, colorful, evocative landscape. Listed below are the elements that this author, co-author, and survey participants find beneficial about the Landscape of Huanchaco:
The streets and building of Huanchaco have great scale. They create corridors and rooms while giving a closer sense of community and using space efficiently. Part of this is also due to the smaller personal space of the Peruvian culture.

Already existing is a hierarchy of streets based on width. While most roads can handle one or two cars, some are strictly pedestrian with only a single vehicle part of the day, such as the market. There is also the main collector that circles the town giving access to almost every side streets and is used by mass transit.

The towns currents size is very walkable leaving little need for automobiles.
The mass transit system, is well equipped to carry commuters to Trujillo at any time of the day.

To have a successful, working community, there needs to exist a mix of economic classes so that one class does not monopolize and area. Huanchaco has completed this task beautifully with homes of wealthy sharing a common wall with an entrenched fishing family.

Huanchaco’s open air market is a magical place, but is also a viable component of the landscape and community. The goal of any architect is to create interaction of people and places often combining social classes. The market here has done this beautifully mixing people in shiny loafers with those in sandals made of old Goodyear’s.

The beach is by far the most important element in Huanchaco, socially, historically and economically.

Huanchaco’s heritage is evident in its numerous festivals that fill the calendar. This author has already experienced three local festivals while taking part in one, the Festival of San Pedro.

One will soon notice in Huanchaco and in Peru there are a lack of traffic signs to clutter your view. Speeds here are checked by speed-bumps and narrow streets. The intent of traffic regulations here are more important than the letter of the law in which they were written which creates for very dynamic traffic patterns.

Pedestrians here in large have control of the streets, at least during the winter months. While busses and taxis on the main collector will prod slow pedestrians along, locals seem to walk in the streets more than on sidewalks. This fact requires more investigation during the summer months of increased population.

The Existing Colonial Architecture here is indispensable. Not only because of its intrinsic value and historic significance, but also because it helps define areas by becoming landmarks. They also help add texture to streets where concrete walls create a gauntlet.

Many of the pavement uses in town are designated not in paint but in stone. While the streets are asphalt, parking areas to the sides are constructed of stone pressed into the concrete. These areas are much more appealing than the yellowed stripped acres of asphalt in the United States. Some of the antique streets that run through the “Traditional District” are also of varying material and patterns. These, again, help delineate different areas of town. These differing pavements aided this student in finding the market each day.

Chan – Chan, the largest adobe city in Northern Peru, and main tourist attraction for the area currently is acting as a buffer between Trujillo and Huanchaco, stopping the two from bleeding together.

Lastly, by no means finally, is the Totoralles Reserve to the north of town. This 47 hectare site holds the history and materials that binds Huanchaco together under it current identity. A beneficial side effect of this is the curbed development in that direction.

DISADVANTAGES

Now that we have identified the existing benefits of Huanchaco’s landscape, we have to recognize the areas dubbed as negative impacts that have emerged through the information finding process.

Initially, 75% of the town in unincorporated and/or is without complete utilities. At the moment, the World Bank is helping citizens gain ownership of their homes which will hopefully influence the utilities to invest more infrastructure into the town. There are two side to the story, but some citizen cannot or do not want to pay for some utilities such as water. Many homes only have water for a few hours during the day and at night. Also, the water tank only holds 400,000 ml of water while old plumbing contributes to a substantial loss. Many businesses and homes have combated this problem by storing reserves in the numerous water tanks that dot the roofs through out town.

There is a general problem with trash, trash in the streets, trash on the beach and trash in the Totoralles. This is unbecoming and unsanitary. Coupled with this problem is the copious amount of dog feces in the parks and in the streets. Again, unsanitary. The two are tied together in that this author has witnessed on many occasion dogs rummaging through trash left out for pick up. Many times the trash left out of pickup is either not in a can or the cans have no lids.

Another disadvantage in the town of Huanchaco are that streets and sidewalks are in a state of disrepair. Many sidewalks are left crumbling and streets are left with enormous potholes. There are also examples of work that has been done by the municipality involving the removal of pavers or sections of sidewalk and are simply not replaced when the job is complete.

A large problem is the sprawl on the east side of town by migrants. There is no direction to there design or apparent aid by the municipality in giving them direction. The inhabitants are also dumping their trash down the slope by the Hostel Bracamonte into the dry river. This is simply an eyesore and again, unsanitary.

The market for Huanchaco at the time of my first interview with Mr. Bracamonte was without water for 15 consecutive days. It has now been over a month. Part of the problem again is that people cannot or do not want to pay and those who can suffer along with the town. Again, this leads to unsanitary conditions and potential health problems.

When one looks up in Huanchaco, the first sight one will see are power lines forming a web over the city. It is understood that it is cheaper to hang than to dig, but this is an element that could be combated in Huanchaco’s Master plan. These open air lines also form a safety hazard.

The summer weather brings tourist, income and their vehicles. Summer traffic congestion is said to leave the town in gridlock. This is a safety hazard and is combatable.

The mass transit system of Huanchaco is one of the most dynamic systems witnessed by this student. While fairly efficient and inexpensive, more order could be brought to this passenger driven business. The incessant honking and calling of buses and random stops have the potential to be streamlined.

Huanchaco is checkered by empty lots or homes that have been condemned or fallen entirely. These lots have the potential to be more than eyesores and trash depositories that breed disease.

Finally, my favorite problem that I have had the privilege to witness is the public urination by the local men of this town. On five separate occasions, two of which took place in the children’s playground, this student has had the pleasure of witnessing someone relieve himself in a public area. This is unsanitary and vial. The problem maybe a lack of public facilities or social responsibility.

RECOMMENDATIONS:

After evaluating the surveys, their testimonials, completed maps, and interviews with Mr. Bracamonte, a list of recommendations has emerged coupled with this author’s own experiences and background in Landscape Architecture. Their aim is to correct or suggest alterations for the problems listed as well as give other possible solutions to potential problems.

The first item that must be accomplished is the delineation of a “Growth Boundary” around Huanchaco. The goal of this imaginary line is to curb growth outside its borders and use what space already exists as buildable ground. The town must make every effort to stay within these boundaries for the plan to work. An example of this would be to reclaim empty or dilapidated lots for construction. This is a commitment to the town and its future.

The northern boundary should be set no further than 30 meters south of the Totoralles Reserve. The western boundary is set by the beach while the eastern limit was once set by the hillside. Now a new Huanchaco has begun construction and needs guidance. The eastern limit should be established no further than what existing. The final southern edge should end at the Club Huanchaco, just past the Hostel Bracamonte.

These borders can and should be reevaluated in ten to twenty years or after the population density has become too dense for the area to handle. In closing, the Totoralles should be left alone at all cost. In a fading way of life, these stand as a testament to a proud people.

The largest element that has come to light from the surveys is the preservation and development of the beach, beach road and frontage. Initially, there is the sanitation problem. Each visit to the beach, has yielded garbage that is not indigenous of sea life and is only picked up by the returning tide. Part of the solution here could be the installation of trash cans on the beach. As this towns largest asset it should make every effort to preserve and maintain its limited stretch of coast. Secondly, there is a desire to design a more vegetated stretch of ocean frontage. Palm trees and modestly sized parks have been suggested along with design details such as lighting. The driving force here is to create a more social atmosphere and opportunities for vegetation and shade. Currently, there is an existing park next to the Municipality which could elegantly be integrated into an innovative design.

During the winter season the traffic congestion in Huanchaco is almost non existent, but on investigation of the tourist season, it can reportedly take forty minutes to move three blocks. Firstly, the streets of Huanchaco are not sufficient to handle those kinds of traffic without altercation and/or sever congestion. Secondly, adding buses and taxies that make their income on the number passengers carried paralyzed in traffic is not beneficial. It is recommended that a parking lot sufficient enough to contain 65% of the summer traffic be constructed at the southern end of town. At this time there is a parking lot constructed on sand delineating parking stalls by stones. While not needing to be paved, a more fixed method of establishing parking stalls is needed while additional planting would make this a more desirable option for weekend vacationers. From here, visitors can either walk a continuation of the beach promenade or use a temporary shuttle system set up by the municipality. This method has had great success at ski resorts in the northeastern states of the United States.

In addition would be that city streets during the day would only be open to local traffic and mass transit. In essence it will become pedestrianized during the summer or as needed during swells in the summer population.
Green, Green, Green. The people have spoken. Every survey, person interviewed and co-author agrees that Huanchaco is starving for vegetation. One area cited for “Greening” is the beach road that runs through town as stated previously in its potential remodel. As recommended, palm trees and miniature parks would decorate this stretch of Peruvian asphalt. The effort is to construct a sense of place as one walks the promenade, much like other beaches around the world. It would also serves as a buffer between the road and help give a sense of identity to the beach and Huanchaco. Secondly, any street that can be planted is highly recommended. Some avenues, due to their narrow nature will have to be omitted, while others will need more creative solutions due to power lines and space restrictions.

Possibilities for streets in the “Traditional District”, where widths narrow to 3 – 4 meters are the implementation of “Vest Pocket Parks”. These tiny parks can fill areas where condemned, and/or abandoned homes reside. They allow residences, who cannot afford a garden, a place to go. A simple garden with a solitary shade tree and seating would suffice. Also, these can be designed by locals or artisans helping create a tighter sense of community. There is little financial gain for the town , but the social gains through health and moral are immeasurable.

Even though Huanchaco has existing parks and green areas such as the Plaza de Armas and the Children’s Park on Tupac Amaru, there is still a desire for more. Parks coupled with larger areas for athletic play such as soccer fields and tennis courts have been suggested. At the moment, Huanchaco only has one grass soccer field. If this one is occupied, there are few options.

When planning for vegetation, the town must remain conscious that all material will need water. There is no point planting if it cannot be cared for properly.

As stated, Huanchaco’s infrastructure is in poor conditions. Sidewalks crumble and streets are pitted. The municipality needs to make a constant effort to rebuild and repair for safety, and esthetic reasons. While under reconstruction or repair is an ideal time to plant any proposed vegetation and bury power lines.

One element that has come to attention is a bridge over the dry river bed at the entry to town. While serving a functional role during El Nino years, the bridge will also act as an entry element, giving a sense of arrival to the modest town. Further detail can be added to the bridge through construction materials giving it a unique sound as one drives over it or through a particular pavement pattern.

One simple element to be added that can make an immense difference are more garbage cans. Yes, there are some, crude as they are, but even in the winter, there is garbage everywhere. One can only image the summer months when the population explodes. The cans should be stationary and built to withstand the assault of the public. The garbage cans that line the street of Trujillo are a good example. They are unassuming, stationary, and easily emptied.

The mass transit system of Huanchaco is one of amazing variety and truly warrants its own ethnography. From day one of my term in Huanchaco, there has a been a steady barrage of calls from the buses, either through human or artificial tones and drag races as buses compete for passengers. A goal of the town should be to either privatize the two or three lines that service Huanchaco and Trujillo or convince the separate companies to run on a set schedule stopping at predetermined locations. This would help decrease the amount of noise that plagues the town and create safer streets.

Also, the bus stops could be demarked by small structures to shield would-be passenger from the sun and possible rains. These structures again could be designed by local artisans to aid in building a tighter sense of community and identity. Techniques such as these have been implemented successfully in the states.

Mass transit in 20 years should finally be powered by a cleaner fuel source than diesel. While there are few or apparently few problems with air pollution in Huanchaco, the potential exists for Huanchaco to become another Trujillo, shrouded in foul smelling air. Cleaner burning or alternative fuel vehicles are most likely a long way off in Peru, but this is a goal to aim for. Coupled with high gas prices this could actually be a cost efficient alternative while aiding in Peru’s economic rebound. Another alternative is a “Light Rail” or electric train line that runs back and fourth to Trujillo. This would require a substantial political and financial effort from Trujillo, but is the most environmentally sound substitute the area could dream to employ.

Building height has become an issue through discussions with my co-author. Huanchaco’s climate in very temperate throughout the winter and much of the morning heat is provided by the sun. If larger buildings are to be erected, they should be limited to four stories and not built in groups. This would still allow for radiant energy to be harvested and will keep some homes from eternal shade. The limiting of building height will also offer an unobstructed view of the Cathedral.

Another proposal that has come from my co-author and surveys is the relocation of the Municipal building and Police Station. Both currently reside on prime beach frontage that would serve a better purpose as a tourist center or other public facility. One suggestion for the new site is located below the Cathedral on Dean Saaverda and Colon. The antique, yellow, colonial home across from the pier also yields another option. Both still allow for mass transit access. The police station should follow suit and relocate as well, possibly finding a home close to the new Municipal building.

Next the market, which has the potential to be more than it presently is. Initially, we would like to see the city step in and help out with the water problem. Secondly, a nicer facility with cleaner walls, counters and booths would be welcomed. The goal should be to have every local do their shopping here. It should a be desired destination not and awkward ritual. Any improvement to the market would greatly increase the moral and health of the town. Even the use of more than one building is a possibility making use of a larger section of Pilocomayo street.

As mentioned, Huanchaco is filled with excellent examples of colonial architecture. These structures should not disappear in vain and need to be resurrected in a form usable and beneficial to the community either through public use such as cultural centers and libraries or as tax paying businesses such as a travel agency. One example is the structure immediately adjacent to the Club Colonial on Miguel Grau. These empty structures speak volumes of Huanchaco’s history and act as landmarks in a city crossed by numerous, narrow streets.

A need has also been expressed to restore a traditional totora home. Even though this home would probably not be used for living, it is an example of using the landscape to save a culture and educate the next generation.
The Totoralles Reserve is a great example of Huanchaco taking a stride in the right direction and has been stressed in the returned testimonials. “For culture, the Totora reed marsh should be more protected to preserve the tradition of Huanchaco.” Even though it is protected, protection alone does not guarantee the tortoras will grow continuously and vigorously. After visiting and observing, there is a need for basic maintenance such as trash removal. There is also the obstacle of the current road. The dust and diesel fumes produced have taken a toll on the historic plant and must be remedied for further propagation of the plants. Either rerouting the road closer the slope or closing it off are the only two options.

Finally, there is the topic of political propaganda. Every direction you turn there is a poster, painting, or advertisement for a political office. Most of these ads are outdated and have run their course. These unnecessary ads should be painted over or pulled down within a set period after the elections. They simply become an eyesore and really are serving no purpose.
There are many other suggestions by the participants of the survey and my co – author that warrant mention, but these require more of a community effort and plan than a landscape architect can design for. These final suggestions are as follows:
• Better schools: Education is key to the survival of any town.
• Security: Huanchaco has had a problem with theft in the past. This problem should stay in the past with better law enforcement and community watches.
• Leadership: There is a general theme in Peru that those who enter politics due so for only for personal gain. There needs to be genuine leadership if Huanchaco is going to realize its future.
• Economic Security: There is a desire for each citizen of Huanchaco to have a steady job and financial security. This may take leadership for the central government of Peru, but it by no means unattainable.

While not every suggestion and recommendation was mentioned, make no doubt that there is a lacking of ideas. Huanchaco strongest asset is it people and they have made it apparent through their participation and outpouring of support for this project. If and when the town of Huanchaco begins to form a concrete masters plan for it citizens, it is imperative include every individual and evaluate every idea. This paper has only sampled a small segment of the population and the results were incredible. Imagine what could be accomplished with the entire enthusiasm in your corner.

In closing , I would personally like to thank every individual who took part in the survey and to the town of Huanchaco for giving their time and effort to this project. The people here truly have a love for their town and I hope it grows to their fullest expectation.