Chris Merriman

Quakertown, Pennsylvania
Senior, Anthropology/History
Western State College (Colorado)

"There is nothing better than learning from experience; and this is an experience."

The Economic Relationship Between Huanchaco and Archaeology
C.W. Merriman

Introduction

Huanchaco is a town in transition. Traditionally it is a small fishing village, but in the last twenty years, that has rapidly changed. Huanchaco is quickly developing a tourist economy that is based on its beach, surfing, and the Pescadores. During this time there has been an increase in restaurants, hotels and other service industries. Unfortunately, Huanchaco only has three months in the summer when tourism booms.

The first time I did venture out of the Hostal Huanchaco into to town, I was struck by the amount of bodegas, hostals, and restaurants lining the streets. I have lived in some tourist towns, but the amount of service industries present in Huanchaco is unbelievable. On Avenida Victor Larco, the main street that parallels the beach, is literally lined with restaurants and hotels for at least a half of a mile. On almost every city block off of Av. Victor Larco there is at least one bodega or small café. For the most part, these remain empty day and night during the winter here in Huanchaco.

Since the 1960’s, foreign archaeologists have been conducting research in the Huanchaco area. Until recently, foreign archaeologists funded by foreign universities conducted the major archaeological investigations. In the past, the common attitude of the archaeologist was to conduct their research and leave the country without giving anything back to the communities in which they had worked. The American archaeologists that I spoke with are changing this behavior by establishing a reciprocal relationship with the communities that surround their sites. Since the discovery of Sipan in the 1980’s, more projects have been funded and directed by Peruvian universities and archaeologists. Just as the face of Huanchaco is changing rapidly, so is the field of Andean archaeology changing on the North Coast.

These two seemingly unrelated subjects collide when American universities come to live in Huanchaco during its off season. For several years, professors and their students have come to Huanchaco to enjoy its beaches, clean comfortable hotels, restaurants, and most importantly, its tranquil gringo friendly atmosphere. In this sense they are tourists, different from the average tourist, but tourists just the same. Archaeologists come to Huanchaco and rent houses, rent rooms in hostals, by meals at restaurants, purchase souvenirs, buy drinks in local pubs, and hire locals to work for them. For the most part, they stay for weeks or months at a time and become temporary “members” of the community, but because this membership is ephemeral, they are tourists. Because they spend their money engaging in tourist activities, they become an economic resource for this tourist-based economy. This role as an economic resource in a tourist economy defines the relationship between the local businesses in Huanchaco and the foreign archaeologists. In this paper, I want to address the relationship between these temporary "members" of Huanchaco and local businesses and to consider the impact that these visitors have on the town of Huanchaco. The following paragraphs address these concerns more specifically.

Methods

I have outlined two groups that need to be introduced prior to any further discussion. The first group consists of two men that run local tourist based service industries. Juan Julio Bracamonte manages the kitchen in his family owned hostal that bears their name. For the better part of the month, he has been host to a group of archaeological field school students and their professor. All of the students stay in the hostal between two and three to a room and are served three meals a day in a packaged deal arranged by Brian Billman, the director of the project. This is the second year that Brian’s group has stayed the Bracamonte. Juan Julio was born and raised in Huanchaco, but has traveled to the United States several times, including both of my home states of Colorado and Pennsylvania, and speaks fluent English.

Fernando Ferrer owns and operates a hostal and a restaurant called Mama Mia’s on Avenida Victor Larco on the beach front of Huanchaco. This year, Fernando does not have a large group of archaeologists, but he has played host to them in the past. Although he has only been in Huanchaco for seven years, he was born and raised in Lima. Prior to running his hostal and restaurant, which by the way has the best pasta I’ve ever tasted, he worked as a marketing agent. As with rest of the people I interviewed for this project, Fernando speaks fluent English.

The second group I worked with are archaeologists. I was able to break this group into two sub-sets, American and Peruvian archaeologists. I was afforded the opportunity to speak with American archaeologists of varying levels of knowledge and responsibility. At the top of this professional chain is Brian Billman. Brian is an archaeology professor from the University of North Carolina. He has been researching on the north coast of Peru for many years and is now conducting a field school for undergraduate students while supervising the projects of several graduate students.

Within Brian’s group I was able to interview five people, two graduate students and three undergraduate students. Julio Rucabado is a Peruvian student enrolled in the University of North Carolina’s doctoral program in archaeology. He is the first foreign student to be accepted into this program and now works with Brian Billman at the Ciudad de Dios site near Trujillo. Currently Julio is heading a project that is investigating the needs of the local people of Ciudad de Dios in order to better understand how they as foreign researchers can best give back to the community in which they conduct their field work. Another one of Brian’s graduate students is Kim Schafer. This is her third field season here in Huanchaco, but here research is less focused on excavation and more on ethnobotanical assemblages that have already been collected. Both of these people were able to provide unique perspectives on the relationship between their group and the local businesses of Huanchaco.

Austin Kamm, Erica Gonzalez, and Alana Delodge were the three representatives of the undergraduate students enrolled in Brian’s field school. All three of these students joined Brian’s project for different reasons. Austin got involved because he is a Pre-Columbian art historian who focuses on Andean iconography. Erica leans more toward the ethnographic side of anthropology, but wanted to try archaeology and have an international experience at the same time. Alana is actually the only one out of the three that was interested in being a Mochica or Chimu archaeologist. Although these were only students I interviewed, I did participate in some group activities that involved all members of the group.

There is a second contingency of archaeologists that are currently conducting research in this area while living in Huanchaco. James Tate is a Ph.D. student and conducts his research at El Brujo. Although I did not get a chance to interview James I was able to talk to three of his assistants and a graduate student who is also working with him. Sara Plescia is currently working on her master’s degree at the University of Northern Arizona in Flagstaff. Estephania, Jose, and Carolin all work for James at his lab in Huanchaco. Currently they are helping Sara with her botanical analysis. Both Estephania and Carolin have had formal educations equal to a bachelor’s degree in the states. Jose does not have a formal education in archaeology, but has learned on the job and worked his way up to his position in the lab. All three of them work for James when the opportunity is available, but they also have other occupations on the side.

I decided that qualitative data would best answer my research question so I chose to use a series of interviews to collect information. When I interviewed Juan Julio and Fernando, I conducted two types of interview. The first interview was extremely informal and in both cases took place in their restaurants. I did not record the interviews with a tape recorder for two reasons. First, my research topic was not developed enough to require the accuracy that a tape recorder provides. I thought that I would have had to transcribe tapes that did not contain much information pertinent to my research, so I simply took notes. The second reason dealt more with rapport and a sense of comfort I wished to develop with Fernando and Juan Julio. The first interviews were more introductory then research oriented and I wanted a chance to familiarize myself with them and also allow them to aquaint themselves with me before I taped any of our conversations. The second time I interviewed each of them, the conversation was more directed and I did use a tape recorder. Juan Julio and Fernando provided crucial information about the difficulties of running a tourist based business in Huanchaco as well as information about what they believe would make Huanchaco a more popular destination.

In interviewing the archaeologists that are represented in this paper I used slightly different methods. Seven of the eleven archaeologists are American and four of them are Peruvian. In all of the cases, I was introduced to them as an archaeologist studying ethnography. This way I almost instantly gained rapport and on several occasions when thanking my stakeholders they said something to the effect of anything to help a fellow archaeologist. Several of the interviews I conducted were not recorded because they were impromptu and I did not have my tape recorder with me, or the interview happened in a place that was not suitable for recording such as a crowded pub, or while walking through an archaeological site. However, three of the interviews were recorded and yielded a wealth of information. In this case, I found it easier to direct the conversation with more straightforward questions and the subsequent answers. Through this set of interviews I was able to ascertain information pertaining to the logistical aspects of conducting research in Peru.

Three of the Peruvian archaeologists, Carolin, Estephania, and Jose, work for James Tate. In this case I decided to try a focus group to expedite my research. I thought that by opening a discussion about archaeology and some of the problems associated with it here in Peru that I would be able to better understand the relationship between archaeologists and the community of Huanchaco. Unfortunately there were several problems in this case. First, my command of the Spanish language is limited to the most simple of conversations, at best. Therefore I was forced to use an interpreter, and despite the fact that he did a wonderful job, I still could not participate in the conversation to direct it or to react to it with appropriate questions. A second problem arose from a time constraint. All three of them had just finished work and had plans to be somewhere else soon after. Consequently, their answers were brief. Despite these problems, Estephania, Jose, and Carolin were able to provide insight into some aspects of the relationship between Peruvian and American archaeologists.

I was also afforded the opportunity to interview three of the Brian’s field school students. In this portion of my research, I found myself leaning more towards the participation side than the observation. When talking with this group, the interviews were not much more than an ordinary conversation that one might have with a new acquaintance. Two times involved consumption of alcohol at a pub and one time was on an archaeological field trip to Chan-Chan. Each time I met with them, I only took notes on some of their experiences in Huanchaco and Trujillo to understand what brings students to Huanchaco and what could make Huanchaco more suitable to their needs.

Although I was able to gather significant amount of information my research suffers from two crippling problems. First, my language skills are so limited, I was forced to speak with English speaking people with the exception of the focus group. This limits the research to a very small number of people, and unfortunately, leans heavily toward American archaeologists. The second problem originates from the five-week time limit. Five weeks is a not enough time to arrive in country, find an area of study, formulate a research question, collect the data, and present the information in a well organized paper.

Discussion

When I first began to investigate this relationship I expected to find some kind of conflict or disharmony. In the past, there has been some latent animosity directed towards foreign archaeologists. When I asked Kim about some of the reasons for looting, she told me that there is somewhat of a “get it before the gringos do” ethic. Some people were upset that foreign archaeologists would take Peruvian antiquities out of the country and give nothing back to the communities they were taken from. However, this does not seem to be the case because the archaeologists staying in Huanchaco are not excavating here. The sites that they are excavating are near other towns.

What Brings Archaeologists to Huanchaco?

If archaeologists are not digging in Huanchaco, why are they living there? Most of my research was directed toward the advantages that Huanchaco has as a place for research. It would be less expensive to live in the towns closer to their sites, or at least in Trujillo where there are more resources available. In fact, most Peruvian archaeologists usually live with in five or ten minutes of their sites. Brian works at Ciudad de Dios which is at least a half an hour from Huanchaco, but he, his students and his lab are here in Huanchaco. James digs at El Brujo and it is forty-five minutes away. Everybody I spoke to agrees that Huanchaco has a tranquil atmosphere, particularly in winter. For Brian this is one of the main draws of Huanchaco. With the exception of dogs barking on the roofs and the taxis and combis honking occasionally, Huanchaco is as quiet as a library. From my room at the Hostal Huanchaco, I can here the ocean two blocks away. It makes for a pleasant work atmosphere.

Not only is Huanchaco quiet during the day, by the nights are tranquil as well. There are only two pubs in Huanchaco. Erica would like to see a discotec here, and Juan Julio agrees that the nightlife could use some improvement, but not at the cost of its tranquility. Kim wishes there was at least a movie theatre. All of these things are twenty minutes away in Trujillo, but less accessible than if they were here in Huanchaco. With regard to the drinking establishment and discotecs, Brian thinks the lack of them is good for his field school because it makes for a more controlled atmosphere. In the four years that he has run this field school he has only had one serious problem with a student drinking to excess.

Another aspect that makes Huanchaco a desirable place to work is the relative security. Huanchaco is a safe town, but like any other community, there are some problems. Juan Julio has witnessed may of Huanchaco’s growing pains. Twenty years ago, Huanchaco was safe enough to leave doors unlocked, but as the town grew, so did the crime. Ten years ago the crime problem became fairly serious and many locals’ homes were burglarized. In recent years security has been tightened by hiring guards to patrol different city blocks at night, but Juan Julio and Fernando both see a need for more security. Fernando believes that there should be gates at the three entrances to Huanchaco as well as police patrolling the streets at night. Juan Julio agrees that entrance into Huanchaco should be controlled.

Brian also sees a need for security, but one of the reasons he returns to Huanchaco year after year is because it is safe. However, as safe as Huanchaco is, Brian has been burglarized twice. The first time the thieves did not get away with anything, but, as Brian explained to me, “the second time it was devastating, they got quite a bit of field equipment.” Apparently a gang from Las Lomas, the newer and poorer section of Huanchaco, staked out the house that Brian rents near the Bracamonte. Normally, he is careful to have someone in the house at all times, but on this day house was vacant for two hours in the afternoon. During this time, the burglars pried the door open and stole thousands of dollars of equipment. Brian does not blame Huanchaco, but himself for letting his guard down. He does not think that there is anything that he can do about the crime except take precautionary measures of his own. Despite this unfortunate incident, Brian and his students feel safe in Huanchaco.

Archaeologists as an Economic Resource

Foreign archaeologists are an important economic resource for the community of Huanchaco. They come to Huanchaco and spend a lot of money on many different things. Two of the most important contributions archaeologists make to the local economy are employment opportunities and job security. At the house Brian rents, he hires maids, guards, and Peruvian research assistants to work in the lab. Brian’s undergraduate students stay at the Hostal Bracamonte which provides consistent employment for at least ten people. This year he is not excavating, but when he does he hires a Peruvian crew. James hires Peruvian excavators to work at his site. At his lab in Huanchaco he has three Peruvian researchers working for him and everyday as I eat my lunch, I see them and Sara walk by on their way to buy lunch at a local restaurant.

Restaurants and pubs provide an excellent example of how the money archaeologists spend finds its way into the hands of local people. Fernando explained to me that with a consistent income from his restaurant, he can hire more local people. The money that these people take home from their job at Mama Mia’s gets spent here in Huanchaco. Aside from the fees they pay their university, which make the field schools possible and the money spent at restaurants, the archaeology students also spend money at local pubs. I have spent several evenings at pubs with some of these students and I will just say that between us all, we did a fine job of supporting the local economy. In fact, we supported the local economy until the early morning and I woke up a poorer man. They also buy souvenirs, surfing lessons, and transportation in taxis and combis. All of their activities inject money into the local economy that normally would not be here, without taking a heavy toll on the cultural identity of Huanchaco. In this manner, the money that groups of archaeologists spend makes its way through the economy of Huanchaco.

Another example of the economic relationship between foreign archaeologists and Huanchaco is the arrangement between Brian and the Hostal Bracamonte. Brian has tried different ways of organizing the living arrangements for his field school. In previous years, he has rented two houses and hired cooks, maids, and handymen. However, he found that tending to the logistical problems such as special diets, providing comforts for gringo students, and maintaining two households distracted him from his work as an archaeologist. Now he has settled on renting a house for his graduate students and lab facilities while his undergraduate students stay in the Hostal Bracamonte. Brian has found this arrangement to be the most convenient for everyone. At the Bracamonte, they are accustomed to dealing with gringos and their needs, and both Juan Julio and his brother do an excellent job of feeding and providing a comfortable environment for Brian and his students.

In the restaurant, Juan Julio goes out of his way to see that his guests are comfortable. Last year, Brian had several students with specific dietary requirements, so Juan Julio and his staff made lists of who could eat what and posted them in the kitchen. He makes sure the students get only bottled water and that all vegetables are peeled or cooked in boiled water to avoid any problems with parasites. On one occasion, I was invited to eat lunch with Brian and his crew. After Juan Julio made sure that all of our meals were to our liking, he turned to Alana and Erica about a money issue. Apparently some money was missing from their room and Juan Julio was making sure everything was all right. He knew exactly who had been in their room to clean and was ready to take action. However, it turned out that the girls had misplaced the money, and it had not been stolen. Juan Julio is very concerned with security, and I think Brian recognizes this and appreciates it. Brian thinks that the service at the Hostal Bracamonte is excellent and Juan Julio thinks that having Brian and his students staying there is always a benefit.

Like any tourist economy, more tourists mean more revenue. The same applies to foreign archaeologists—the more the better. However there are two major obstacles to this. First, according to Brian, there is not very much room for Andean archaeologists. There are a limited number of university positions in the United States for those who conduct research on the North Coast of Peru.

The other problem revolves around the Instituto National de Cultura (INC) which is the department of the federal government responsible for all of the archaeology projects in Peru. The INC has many problems, some of them are out of its control, and others are not. As far as government agencies go, the INC does not have much political power, nor is it well funded. The branch of the INC in Trujillo for example, has an enormous amount of territory to manage including Chan-Chan, El Brujo, Ciudad de Dios, and the rest of La Libertad, with an extremely limited budget. The other funding problem relates to worker’s salaries. The pay is so low that working for the INC is virtually a substandard living. This tends to draw people that may not be the most competent employees.

The INC and the archaeology it is responsible for also suffer from its own bureaucracy. At times the INC is impossible to deal with, while other times the bureaucratic machine runs smoothly. Brian says, “One of the ways I characterize the relationship between the INC and foreign archaeologists is that we have the money and they have the power, and that makes for a very volatile mix [laughs]." Clearly this can have a negative impact on the amount of archaeological research being conducted. The INC does not have the funding to conduct its own projects, but it also makes it difficult for foreign researchers with funding to initiate their own projects. All the while more and more sites are being looted by huaqueros (pot-hunters). Fernando says that there is a power struggle between foreign and national interests, but there is also a conflict between national and local authorities. For example, at Chan-Chan, which is with in Huanchaco’s jurisdiction, the money that is collected goes to the INC office in Lima. Once Lima is done shuffling papers, which can take six months, the money is supposed to return to the INC office in Trujillo. Then that money is intended for repairs and salaries. However, while the bureaucratic machine stumbles along, people are not being paid and buildings go unrepaired. The other problem that Fernando sees is that none of this money makes its way into the hands of Huanchaco locals. He believes that there needs to be more local control of resources. Fernando, Brian, and Julio all told me that there needs to be more cooperation between the INC and foreign archaeologists. I believe that Fernando said it best when he said, Peru’s “future is in the past, from the history of Peru,” meaning that the archaeology and rich history of Peru need to be preserved for the country to have a future.

Conclusion

As an exploratory study, my research provided many insights. However, if I were given more time, I would pursue another direction. During my investigations, my informants provided a wealth of information concerning changes in the ethics of foreign archaeologists. For example, Brian has helped to build a road and an elementary school in community needs with the hopes of avoiding any paternalistic attitude. Sara wants to make Spanish copies of her thesis to share with her Peruvian coworkers. I think that further research should be directed towards understanding the relationship between foreign archaeologists and the communities that they work in.

On a more personal note, I need to express my frustration with my lack of language skills. There is an incredible amount of knowledge that is unavailable to me because I do not speak Spanish fluently. This language barrier was my single biggest obstacle while conducting this research. Apart from that, I feel that the information I was able to collect can be extremely useful.

As a closing sentiment, I would like to thank all of the people that made this paper possible: Bonnie Glass-Coffin, Chad Balagna, Juan Julio Bracamonte, Brian Billman, Fernando Ferrer, Sara Plescia, Kim Schafer, Erica Gonzalez, Alana DeLodge, Austin Kamm, and James Tate’s lab crew. Thank you all very much.